45th Parallel
“A backwoods trek in loveliness”
Half way between the North Pole and the Equator is the 45th Parallel. In Michigan: Old Mission Lighthouse.
"My grandma is a troll."
You’re from Michigan? It all makes sense now. Here in the Great Lakes State, a "troll" is someone who lives in the Lower Peninsula — "under" the Mackinac Bridge. Chances are good that your grandma actually IS a troll!
"Beaches are better unsalted."
On Abigail's side: Lake Superior.On Benjamin's side: Lake Michigan. I'm holding two Heart Shaped rocks found on either side. We also collect water whenever we travel.
We’re heading back to Michigan.
It’s been 5 years since we’ve seen Grandparents and now that COVID has given us a little window, we’re jumping through it. Everyone who can is gathering together this long weekend. Our Michigan Memorial will be honoring Aunt Pat, the sole (and soul) sister of Michael’s mom, Connie. All my memories of Aunt Pat consist of laughter.
She was the Aunt who wrote a check for $50 each year for Christmas and Birthdays. Like her sister, Aunt Pat had beautiful penmanship. Her handwriting was fluid with an even, quick writing rhythm. Her words were always kind and gave the impression of efficiency; quick and fatigue-free. She paid attention to details.
Our beloved Aunt Pat passed last January of cancer. As her illness progressed, her fatigue did eventually catch up with her and yet she managed to write and send a check for $50. This was her thing. She wanted you to know that she thought of you.
Michigan is nothing if not a state that encapsulates tradition.
Sometime around 1970, a geography club marked a route across Michigan called the Polar-Equator Trail. The Michigan Legislature declared it a major tourist attraction. The Detroit Free Press reported it was “a backwoods trek in loveliness along the 45th Parallel.”
The route takes you past Michigan’s grand highlights and quiet byways. You encounter Lake Huron and Lake Michigan, plus sparkling inland lakes. Michael always says, “When you throw a rock in Michigan, it lands in a lake.” You pass farms, hills, the humongous Mackinaw State Forest, elk, a zillion cows, churches, cherry trees, wineries, fields of corn, big cities and tiny towns.
In Michigan, the 45th Parallel cuts from the South Manitou Island lighthouse east to Leland, Suttons Bay, Bellaire, Gaylord, Atlanta and Alpena.
Michael’s folks live in Atlanta - the only Michigan downtown plopped exactly on the 45th. Its actual latitude is 44.991. Claude, Michael’s dad, has about 14 sheds speckled around the 7 acres of thick woods. All of these sheds contain homemade boats. I’m not quite sure if he has sailed in them, but I’m positive he has no intention to sink in them.
When you stand on the 45th Parallel, the halfway point between the equator and North Pole, the ground doesn’t vibrate and compasses don’t go twirly haywire. Instead, you meet many fine people and see a heck of a lot of trees.
When you look at the map (above) you can see this parallel traveling through other quaint places such as Maine. It's north of the town of Perry, Maine, which is about as far east as you can get in the U.S. In Europe, the 45th parallel hits the Bay of Biscay on the coast of France. The city of Bordeaux is just south of the parallel. (My friend Scott Moore is running two retreats in Bordeaux!)
What’s in a route
Ah, that’s where the adventure starts! There is no one 45th Parallel road. In fact, no road goes more than a few miles directly along the line. But cobble together a route of your own, and you’ll always stay just a few miles from the famous latitude.
A nearby town is Alpena. Michael, the kids, and I drove along the 45th parallel and ended up onto the pier in Leland and gazed out at South Manitou Island, eyes still crossing and bellies churning from all the twists and turns.
Upon conducting more research, I discovered that many Michigan towns make the most of their premium parallel position.
You can sample fudge or food from 45th Parallel Candy World and 45th Parallel Cafe in Suttons Bay.
You can drink wine from 45 North, a winery in Leelanau County.
On July 14-18, you can attend Gaylord’s Alpenfest.
Betty and Bucky’s Family Dining serves a nice ham sandwich.
There’s bluegill fishing off the town pier in the Thunder Bay River.
And in 2009, the “45th Parallel Music and Arts Association” was incorporated.
The lighthouse at the tip of the Old Mission Peninsula near Traverse City has a big sign proclaiming it’s on the 45th Parallel, when actually the real line is about a mile north in Grand Traverse Bay.
(A tiny sign near the beach explains the mistake.)
During the summer that we traveled along the 45th parallel, we occasionally veered off toward other spots that called out to us. The darkness of night merely consumed (what appeared to be) one-tenth of the day, our exploring days were long in discovery and short in sleep.
We traveled to White Fish Point to learn about the “The Mighty Fitz '' and to hear her song.
“The Mighty Fitz; she was a workhorse!”
Gordon Lightfoot Edmund Fitzgerald song
Edmund Fitzgerald. 730 feet long and housing 29 men, she sank without sending any distress calls during hurricane gale force winds and waves.
As a workhorse, she set seasonal haul records six times, often breaking her own record. Captain Peter Pulce often played music while passing through towns. Her size, record-breaking performance, and "DJ captain" endeared Edmund Fitzgerald to boat watchers.
White Fish Point. This is where the Edmund Fitzgerald bell is housed. In 1975 (and made famous by Gordon Lightfoot in 1976) the"Mighty Fitz '' sank in White Fish Bay just 17 miles from this point.
White Fish Point. This is where the Edmund Fitzgerald bell is housed. In 1975 (and made famous by Gordon Lightfoot in 1976) the"Mighty Fitz '' sank in White Fish Bay just 17 miles from this point.
We stopped at every opportunity to gather stones on beaches. We couldn’t make up our mind if we were cold or warm and none of that really seemed to matter in the end.
"There’s nothing like a day on the Big Lake."
Petosky Stones! (Abigail wore her winter insulated pants on this particular day. At the end of the day, she had soaked them in the lake... they weighed about 45 lbs)
Such stones were formed as a result of glaciation, in which sheets of ice plucked stones from the bedrock, grinding off their rough edges and depositing them in the northwestern portion of Michigan's lower peninsula.
We camped in total darkness still wearing bathing suits. We cared nothing of our attire but always of our adventure. Michigan held no timelines and no time constraints. It will always hold memories of kind people who, if you’re lucky, write in beautiful penmanship their love for you and call you family.
What are you doing to get out under the sun as it warms up? Who are the ones you hold near and dear to your heart? Which memories move you still to this day? I really want to know!
*** Tell me here: https://www.facebook.com/amy.p.conn/
or here: amyconnyoga@gmail.com ***
Sweet Abigail holding her “heart light” to help guide us all.
